TeddytoArctic2019.blogspot.com

I boarded a plane in Toronto in 30 degrees Celsius with a duffel bag full of wool sweaters, long underwear and rubber boots. Twelve hours later I arrived in Isafjordur on no sleep. The first impressions of Iceland were good. Sunshine and stunning scenery. I took a shuttle to the harbour and couldn't find Teddy at first. It was low tide and she was out of sight, but I spotted the two spruce masts poking up above the harbour wall. After introductions to Josh and Hue, I was immediately fed and watered, shown my berth and given a preliminary tour of the boat. Then it was off to the local brewery to sample the beer. Diego arrived shortly after that and we went out to do some fishing. Cod were in abundance and we were blessed... after Hue had gutted and filleted all the fish, Diego cooked us a delicious meal. I hadn't slept since Friday but I just couldn't go to bed yet. The sky, the light and the scenery was amazing. My first glimpse of the midnight sun is something I will neve...

Tracking device link: https://share.garmin.com/NigelBaker

Diego joined us a few hours after Darby (Darren). The five of us made a happy group for one night, very amiable - how I wanted to take the lot for the rest of the trip. Hue left yesterday evening and the grey rains started after her departure. She returns via London & training in New Zealand to the NZ Antarctic base for a 14 month stint. Josh has decided to stay on till August 5th, when he must catch a flight from Reykjavik to Boston for the next stage of his voyage around the world, a sail up to Nova Scotia. We'll drop him off on the way to Ireland. This morning Darby served up bacon & eggs - a workman's breakfast, and we tidied up & sorted out Teddy. She is watered; after this cafe we pick up diesel on the way out. The approaches to Scoresbysund remains congested with 100% ice. But Kangerlusuaq Fjord is virtually clear. It lies NW 250 NM distant. The winds to be NE for the next few days - most favourable. We go there. No one there - not a house or soul -...

A few photos of us gathering ingredients for dinner and the results... Gathering mussels at low tide Sea spinach from the beach Josh's masterpiece: potatoe mash with mussels and sea spinach in a cream sauce. Dinner was served at midnight so Nick caught up on some sleep during the cooking process. Sea rocket Nick's successful attempt at taking a photo of us and our catch Going incognito; gathering rhubarb in someone's backyard First cod meal: pan fried with salad Nick ended the fishing drought with these mackerel. Josh, wonder where the second bucket is now?

The jammed genoa halyard is fixed. We had to sail to the well sheltered harbour of Raufarhöfn to investigate the problem. It involved brain storming sessions, improvisation, spare parts from an old block, assistance from a kind mechanic on a Friday afternoon, checklist of installation process, dry-runs without dropping parts/tools while working at the top of the main mast and fair weather. It also provided a good opportunity for top-down shots of Teddy. Stuck halyard probably due to incorrectly installed block     Brainstorming session on how to fix the broken block Required the help of a local mechanic Strip parts from another well used and retired block Improved block with custom clamp to hold sides together and now correctly installed Teddy, looking magical, from the top of the main mast.

I had an epic time on Teddy and wish I could continue on to Greenland with you, especially when we all love to cook and enjoy food so much. The scenery would always be jaw dropping stunning but how will I find another group of warm hearted individuals like you? Thank you for making me laugh so much on board, even when the shit hits the fan, literally. I left you guys a couple of presents on Teddy. I haven't forgotten anything. See if you can 'find' them all. With time, you will. Final sunset for me in Iceland on Teddy

Arrived at Isafjordur at noon. Actually we arrived at 2 am, but without the engine and with a dying wind we tied up to a fish farm buoy up the fjord for the remainder of the night. The engine is now fine. Two days ago we ran into a suddenly shoaling silt bottom in the opaque waters of a fjord that drains the meltwaters of Drangurjokull, Iceland's northernmost glacier. Two stern anchors immediately laid out astern & winched in tight, the engine in full reverse - no go. Until the rising tide got us off, and naturally both lines got fouled in the prop. Josh jumped into the opacity to clear the prop, but blind he could do nothing other than get cold. The next day was dead calm and I rowed towing Teddy for an hour to get out into clear waters (better visibility) - not much progress. When a breeze sprang up we tacked out into clear waters. Josh hopped in a 2nd time, and was able to clear away most of the rope before getting cold again. Hence the sail down Jokulfjordur and south to ...