Arrived at Isafjordur at noon. Actually we arrived at 2 am, but without the engine and with a dying wind we tied up to a fish farm buoy up the fjord for the remainder of the night.

The engine is now fine. Two days ago we ran into a suddenly shoaling silt bottom in the opaque waters of a fjord that drains the meltwaters of Drangurjokull, Iceland's northernmost glacier. Two stern anchors immediately laid out astern & winched in tight, the engine in full reverse - no go. Until the rising tide got us off, and naturally both lines got fouled in the prop. Josh jumped into the opacity to clear the prop, but blind he could do nothing other than get cold. The next day was dead calm and I rowed towing Teddy for an hour to get out into clear waters (better visibility) - not much progress. When a breeze sprang up we tacked out into clear waters. Josh hopped in a 2nd time, and was able to clear away most of the rope before getting cold again. Hence the sail down Jokulfjordur and south to Isafjordur, in waters rich with whales. Josh jumped in this morning for the third time, and cleared the prop shaft.


The depth sounder stopped work, this is the back-up model working away just before it got too shallow.


Second attempt at freeing the ropes but it was too cold to complete the task


Nick towing Teddy by rowing in the dinghy


Third and final attempt, under 3 min in the water. Success at last!


Another piece of equipment on Teddy that should be displayed in a museum, like Nick's hearing aid ;)


Last night had sadness for me as both Hue & Josh will be leaving. Though Josh has not yet decided whether to come along on the 2nd leg. One of the two new crew, Darby, just arrived, a North Irishman from the Toronto, Canada region, well draped, like Josh in tattoos. This must be the year of the tattoo. Diego to fly in tonight.

We visited what is perhaps my most magical spot in Iceland - a remote fjord up Jokullfjordur, anchoring at its head by a large waterfall of meltwater running down from the winter snows above. Such an unspoiled place, so beautiful. Hue discovered mussels and I found the shoreline to be dense in orache; in consequence Josh put together a splendid dish of mussels in onion and orache, with a little rum mixed in.

Ice off east Greenland is reported to be very heavy this year. Have to see the updated ice charts and the changes the next few days brings.

*photos and captions provided by Hue

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