The Irish West Coast - Baltimore to Clifden and the Inishkeas

Teddy in flight under main and genoa
We left  Baltimore at 0400 Monday morning, motorsailing out-towards the infamous Fastnet light, before heading west under four sails. The self steering, without tiller pilot or windvane, is based solely on the remarkable balance between main mast and mizzen. A sailing revelation for me, absolutely incredible. She wavers no more than 5 degrees off course at any moment, and course can be changed via sheeting in or easing the mizzen. Pure bliss!

We sailed right through the day, passing through Dursey Passage before anchoring at Inishvickillane around midnight, under a brilliant full moon. The morning saw a few odd jobs on the boat before heading ashore for a wander. We were promptly asked to leave by a caretaker, so we slowly walked back, lingering on the cliff edge overlooking the Atlantic. This was an absolutely beautiful anchorage, and we were treated to seals and puffins all around us.

Teddy at anchor; Inishvickillane
Looking down on the Atlantic, and frolicking seals below

After leaving Inishvickillane we headed to the Skellig islands to checkout the imposing geology and swarms of Gannets. Incredible!


Little Skellig Island

Gannet guano everywhere
 The rest of our passage to Clifden was marked by numerous visits by dolphins, and at least one Minke whale. Fantastic sailing, and gorgeous weather. A great start to the voyage.

We went ashore at Clifden so Pierre could catch his bus back to Cork,
and pick up more supplies and equipment (including shotgun and ice-spear). Had a lovely evening with Nick's friend Catherine, and then back to Teddy for a sleep.

Thursday morning we left Clifden and headed for thee Inishkeas. Nick finally broke our fishing drought, catching four mullet on one line. Dinner is served!

We anchored in a lovely little bay at Inishkea North, and rowed ashore to meet Brion, the buddhist "hermit". Brion gave us a tour of the island, including megalithic and early christian ruins and relics,  before we had dinner with him and his wife, Dot. Spuds, mullet and salad.

Teddy anchored at Inishkae North

Cross on Inishkae North; c. 650 AD
I'm writing this as we leave the Inishkeas. Next stop St Kilda, 240 miles NNE of us. Next update will likely come from the Faroes, some 540 miles away.

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